Fryeburg, Maine

More than just a rest stop on the way to New Hampshire.

We have driven through Fryeburg more times than I could possibly count.

For years, it has mostly been one of those towns we pass through on the way to somewhere else in New Hampshire. A place to stop, stretch our legs, grab something to eat, and keep going.

But Fryeburg deserves more than that.

Some of my favorite summer memories are floating down the Saco River here, and every fall I look forward to the Fryeburg Fair. This time, though, we decided to actually slow down and explore some of the things we had somehow missed after all those trips through town.

Fryeburg was settled in 1763 and incorporated in 1777. It was named for General Joseph Frye, who received the land as a grant for his service during the French and Indian Wars. Long before European settlement, the Pequawket people lived in the Saco River valley and traveled the routes that eventually became some of the roads we still use today.

The Saco River has always been a huge part of Fryeburg’s story. At one time, the river wound for roughly 70 miles through the township before a canal built in 1817 shortened its course considerably. Today, the river is still one of the biggest reasons people come to Fryeburg – only now we are traveling it in canoes, kayaks, and tubes instead of relying on it for transportation and farming.

Admiral Peary Inn
If camping isn’t your thing, the Admiral Peary Inn offers a more traditional New England stay right in Fryeburg village.

The historic bed-and-breakfast is close to downtown while still putting you within easy reach of the Saco River, White Mountains, North Conway, and everything else in this corner of western Maine.

Canal Bridge Campground

For the campers, Canal Bridge Campground sits right on the Saco River along Route 5.

This is definitely more traditional camping – 36 sites without hookups – but they have a sandy river beach, bathhouse with hot showers, and direct access for tubing, kayaking, and canoeing. Travel trailers are welcome too, so this is one I would consider if I wanted the Saco River experience to be the main event.

302 West Smokehouse & Tavern

We finished this visit with lunch at 302 West, one of the few real sit-down restaurant options in town.

It is a small BBQ place with friendly staff, eccentric decor, and an absolutely dangerous-looking dessert case if you can eat the gluten.

We could not.

My mom, however, could.

So we brought her home one of their lobster-tail pastries – which they called lobster claws – because apparently we are excellent children and grandchildren.

For the actual meal, I was really happy with how many gluten-free choices were available. The waitress was super helpful, and I ended up ordering the burnt ends and swapping the fries for mashed potatoes.

Those burnt ends practically melted in my mouth.

Layla went with the BBQ ribs, which were also really good. Their current menu marks several BBQ platters and other dishes gluten-free, so this was one of those meals where I actually had choices instead of settling for whatever happened to be safe.

I would definitely eat here again.

Subway

I know, I know. Subway is not exactly the exciting local restaurant recommendation.

But it has been my go-to for years when we are heading out on the Saco River and need an easy lunch to bring along.

Grab a sandwich, toss it in the cooler, and you have something quick to eat when you stop on a sandbar later in the day. Sometimes convenient wins.

For me, it is also one of those familiar stops that has become part of our Fryeburg routine after so many trips through town.

Float the Saco River

One of my absolute favorite summer activities is tubing down the Saco River through this area.

We have done it more than once, and the coolest thing is that the river never really feels exactly the same.

Some summers the water gets so low that people in canoes end up getting out and walking through the shallow spots. Other years, the water is deeper, faster, and a completely different ride.

That unpredictability is part of what makes it fun – but it also means you should always check conditions before getting on the water. Saco Bound actually publishes river-condition information because the flow can vary so much.

Saco Bound is located just upstream in Conway and has always been great at taking care of the logistics. They offer tubes, canoes, kayaks, shuttle service, shorter day trips, and even multi-day river camping adventures. Their overnight trips can continue from Fryeburg all the way toward Hiram, with camping along designated unposted beaches and sandbars.

Basically, you show up ready to float and let them figure out how to get you and your stuff where it needs to go.

Nice.

Fryeburg Fair

If I had to pick a favorite fall fair in Maine, Fryeburg would probably win.

It started way back in 1851 and has grown into Maine’s largest agricultural fair, with more than 3,000 animals, horse racing, draft horses, oxen, livestock competitions, rides, exhibits, food, and basically enough going on that you can easily spend an entire day here.

The animals are always one of my favorite parts, but I also really enjoy the horse racing.

Do I know anything about picking a winning horse?

Absolutely not.

Do I occasionally place a cheap bet and pretend I have developed some sophisticated racing strategy based entirely on the horse’s name?

Absolutely.

Layla’s fair recommendation is much more reliable: the lemonade stand near the racetrack.

Nothing fancy. Just real lemons and limes, made fresh.

She swears by it.

Hemlock Covered Bridge

I cannot believe how many times we have driven through Fryeburg without knowing this was here.

Hemlock Covered Bridge was built in 1857 and crosses an old channel of the Saco River in East Fryeburg. It is a 109-foot Paddleford-truss bridge supported by granite abutments and is still one of Maine’s surviving historic covered bridges.

Getting there is part of the fun.

The bridge sits a couple miles off the main road down a dirt road, and on the way we passed a painted frog rock marked “Frog Alley.”

Naturally, that required a picture too.

The bridge itself was worth the drive. I am always amazed looking at old covered bridges and thinking about the craftsmanship that went into building something that is still standing more than 150 years later.

And this one feels especially hidden away, which made finding it even better.

Jockey Cap

You know that giant rock looming behind the grocery store and Dollar General?

Yeah.

Apparently you can hike up there.

Jockey Cap is only about a 0.7-mile round trip, but the last section climbs fairly steeply onto the ledge. Once you’re on top, though, the view is way bigger than the amount of hiking required to get there.

On a clear day, you can even see Mount Washington tucked between the ridgelines in the distance.

At the summit there is a really cool panoramic mountain guide connected to Admiral Robert Peary. You can line up the outlines on the marker with the actual mountains in front of you and figure out what you’re looking at.

I loved that.

I also loved the fact that from certain angles the dramatic mountain backdrop includes…

The school…or the grocery store across the street.

It’s like you forget that you are right in town until you glance to the left!

Do not blindly follow AllTrails to the Jockey Cap parking area.

Ours tried to send us toward the school, which technically gets you near the rock but does not put you at the actual public trailhead without cutting through the woods.

There is a clearly marked official parking lot about 0.2 miles farther east on Route 302, with plenty of parking and an obvious trail entrance. Maine Trail Finder gives the correct directions to that lot.

Save yourself the confusion and use the real trailhead.

Every town connects to the next by road – not by chance.

US Route 302
East: Bridgton ME
West: Conway NH

ME Route 5
North: Lovell ME
South: Brownfield ME

ME Route 113
North: Stow ME
South: Brownfield ME

Fryeburg sits at an important western Maine crossroads, with Routes 5, 113, and 302 all passing through town before heading toward the White Mountains and New Hampshire.

Fryeburg is funny for me because it has never really felt like a new place.

We have been through here countless times.

We’ve floated the Saco.

We’ve spent long October days at the fair.

We’ve stopped here on trips to New Hampshire more times than I can remember.

And somehow, we still found things we had never seen.

A covered bridge hidden down a dirt road.

A tiny trail leading to a huge view.

A mountain-identifying compass on top of a rock overlooking town.

And some seriously good BBQ.

That is probably my favorite part of this Route 5 project.

Even the towns I thought I already knew keep surprising me.

Next week we’re continuing north into Lovell, Stoneham, and Albany Township.

Lovell should give us some beautiful lake views and another short hike, while Stoneham and Albany Township are going to require a little more exploring to see what we can find.

We already know one stop we absolutely aren’t missing: that famous Maine sign pointing toward Norway, Paris, Denmark, Sweden, Mexico, China, and the rest of the world.

If you know a hidden gem anywhere along this next stretch of Route 5, send it my way.

Progress Report – Approximately 61 of 118 Miles Explored
Old Orchard Beach  → Saco  → Biddeford  → Dayton  → Hollis  → Lyman  →  Waterboro → Limerick → Cornish → Baldwin → Hiram → Brownfield → Fryeburg

Still to Come –
Lovell → Stoneham → Albany Township → Bethel → Newry → Hanover → Rumford → Andover

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