Picture this: eagerly anticipating the Can-American Dog Sled Race in Fort Kent for half a year, only to have Mother Nature throw us a curveball. Yep, you guessed it, not enough snow for the race! But hey, when life hands you lemons, you make lemonade, right? We heard whispers of impromptu fun runs on smaller stretches of snow, but alas, no luck there either. To add a cherry on top, Layla was battling a stubborn cold, and I was just starting to feel under the weather myself. Talk about timing, huh? Despite the setbacks, Layla’s enthusiasm for the trip was contagious, so off we went, embracing the adventure with open arms. Layla took the lead on this one, being the ultimate tour guide thanks to her college days at the University of Maine in Fort Kent. And let me tell you, despite the hiccups, the ups and downs, it was a trip worth remembering!
Our Friday morning kicked off bright and early, fueled by a pit stop at Aroma Joe’s for that essential dose of caffeine. Pro tip: maybe skip the coffee joint right next to the college if you can help it. Lesson learned! We embarked on a little detour through Houlton en route to our main destination. Why the detour, you ask? Well, we had a noble side mission of dropping off some much-needed cat crates at the Houlton Humane Society for Layla’s work. Clear skies and smooth sailing paved the way for a seamless journey.
As we cruised from Houlton to Presque Isle, we stumbled upon something unexpected. Random planets scattered along the roadside caught our attention. Cue the Google search, and voila! We uncovered the hidden gem known as the Maine Solar System Model. From the radiant Sun at the University of Maine at Presque Isle to the distant Eris in Topsfield (though most of them are clustered between Houlton and Presque Isle), it’s a fascinating scale model of our celestial neighborhood. Needless to say, we’re already planning a return trip this summer to hunt down all the celestial bodies we missed.
Next stop: University of Maine at Fort Kent, home to the Acadian Archives, a haven for history enthusiasts like ourselves. Trust me, if you’ve got a thirst for knowledge, this place is a goldmine! Packed to the brim with resources catering to both French and English speakers, it’s a treasure trove of information. Fun fact: Layla actually did her work-study gig here back in her school days. Talk about coming full circle! And as if that wasn’t cool enough, she’s got ancestors who called this area home way back in the 1800s. Looking through all the books with old photographs was like stepping back in time and witnessing life as it once was. Moments like these make you appreciate the resilience and self-sufficiency of folks living in isolated communities back in the day. Truly humbling to think about how they thrived against all odds.
After a day packed with adventures, we finally arrived at our humble abode for the night: the Gateway Inn. Now, I’ll admit, I had some reservations after hearing mixed reviews, but sometimes surprises come in unexpected packages. Upon check-in, I couldn’t help but notice a couple of minor hiccups. First off, no deadbolt on the door – not exactly ideal for peace of mind. And those blinds? Let’s just say they were more for show than function, leaving a little too much to be desired in terms of privacy. But hey, the guy at the front desk was as courteous as they come, and I did spy some renovations in progress, so there’s hope for improvement! Despite these minor gripes, I’d give the Gateway Inn a second chance. It wasn’t exactly bustling with activity, which was a relief given the blind situation – took a bit of finagling to get them to cooperate. The last thing we needed was a constant stream of passersby outside our door!
As for our plans to explore the Four Corners Park in Madawaska, well, turns out they were closed for the season. Bummer, right? But hey, it’s all part of the adventure. Did you know the park’s part of the SCMA-USA Four Corners Tour, celebrating long-distance motorcycling? Definitely adding it to the bucket list for next time!
While Layla ventured across the border into Canada for a bit of exploration before dinner, I found myself grounded due to my lack of a passport. Note to self: getting that passport is definitely a top priority! When crossing into Canada, have a solid plan in mind. They’ll want to know where you’re headed, so it’s best to be prepared. Unlike the States, you can’t just hop in the car and wander aimlessly. But hey, the upside? Canada is a treasure trove of delectable treats that make the journey oh-so-worthwhile! From my personal favorite, Smarties, to indulgent Mars Bars and Aero Bars, and don’t even get me started on Layla’s obsession with Roasted Chicken Chips – Canadian snacks are in a league of their own. There’s just something about them that elevates snacking to a whole new level.
Dinner time rolled around, and we found ourselves at the Lakeview Restaurant in St. Agatha – a hidden gem with its own charming campground. In the winter, when the snow blankets the ground, this place becomes a hotspot for snowmobilers. Sometimes, there are more sleds parked outside than cars!
Luck was on our side as we snagged a coveted window seat overlooking the tranquil lake, just as the sun started its descent. This spot held a special place in Layla’s heart from her college days, especially since a friend of hers used to work there. Now, let’s talk about the food – absolute perfection! I opted for a simple fish sandwich, which did not disappoint. Layla went with the chicken tenders, always a fav and always cooked to crispy, juicy perfection. But what truly stole the show were their homemade sauces, elevating every bite to a culinary delight. And what’s a meal without a drink to wash it down? Layla indulged in an Angry Orchard with a cheeky butterscotch rum shot and a cinnamon sugar rim – talk about a flavor explosion!
The following morning, we embarked on an adventure into the Allagash, hopeful to catch a glimpse of a majestic moose. Alas, luck wasn’t entirely on our side in the moose department, but we did stumble upon so many gatherings of deer amidst the wilderness.
Before hitting the road, we swung by Tim Hortons for a quintessential breakfast fix. My excitement peaked as I laid eyes on a French cruller donut – a nostalgic treat that’s become increasingly elusive back home since Dunkin Donuts discontinued them. Meanwhile, Layla opted for one of their energy drinks, though the flavor turned out a tad too blueberry-centric for her taste. But hey, you win some, you lose some, right? Thankfully, Layla’s spirits were lifted with a heavenly chocolate chip muffin in hand. It’s the little pleasures like these that make every journey memorable.
Let’s talk about being off the grid – zero cell service out in the woods. It’s the kind of adventure that gets your heart racing, but it’s important to cover your bases. We made sure to leave a copy of our plans with someone back home, just in case we found ourselves in a bind. Trust me, it’s a smart move anytime you’re venturing out solo or into areas with sketchy signal, like hiking trails or remote roads on a road trip.
Speaking of remote roads, let me paint you a picture: pristine pavement giving way to rugged dirt paths. Add in a sprinkle of logging trucks barreling down those very same roads, and you’ve got yourself quite the adventure. These trucks? They’re like behemoths on wheels, careening along at speeds that’d make your head spin – and they do have the right of way. And here’s the kicker: they couldn’t care less about little ol’ you. Rocks fly, dust billows and you’re left feeling like you’re staring down a dusty tornado barreling towards you. Keep your wits about you and watch out for those logging giants. Be sure to pull over and give them plenty of room.
Venturing into the woods, we were met with unexpected patches of snow despite the sled dog race cancellation. It added a touch of magic to our wilderness exploration, but soon we encountered another challenge: icy roads. Undeterred, we pressed on, eagerly scanning the surroundings for signs of wildlife along the meandering path of the St. John River. However, as the road grew increasingly icy, our sense of adventure was tinged with caution. Eventually, we reached a tipping point – a treacherous hill ahead looked too hazardous to navigate further.
Attempting to reverse, we were met with a chilling realization: the tires spun helplessly on the ice, and panic threatened to take hold. With no one in sight for miles, we knew we had to act fast. Scraping gravel from the road in a desperate bid for traction proved futile on the frozen terrain. As nerves mounted, a stroke of luck came in the form of a forgotten blanket tucked away in the car. Using it to bolster traction, we breathed a sigh of relief as the wheels found purchase on gravel once more. With civilization beckoning, we wasted no time in retracing our steps, grateful for the lesson learned.
For lunch, we made our way to Rocks in Fort Kent, a local institution steeped in history. Founded way back in 1945 by the legendary Rock Ouellette, this place has quite the story to tell. It all started as a humble hot dog stand, believe it or not, back when Rock was just a high school student. But post-war, he saw an opportunity and transformed it into a full-fledged business. Fast forward to today, and Rocks is still going strong under the ownership of Sandra and Peter Pinette since 2001. It’s amazing how from its modest beginnings, Rocks has blossomed into a beloved spot serving up hearty home-cooked meals and comforting classics.
Now, let’s talk about the food. Layla went for the Hamburg mix fry with grilled onions – a personal favorite that never disappoints. Layla says getting it to go adds a little extra flavor. And don’t even get me started on the pronunciation debate – is it poo-teen or poo-tsin? You’re bound to spark a lively argument among locals! When I feel a bit under the weather I tend to go with a classic fish sandwich and this one did not disappoint. However, those legendary Whoopie Pies we picked up – supposedly the best around. Maybe it’s a Northern Maine thing, but honestly, they tasted a bit off to me. The filling had this strange texture that didn’t quite hit the spot. Oh well, can’t win ’em all!
Across from Rocks, we stopped at the iconic America’s First Mile Monument, marking the beginning of the historic US Route 1 Highway stretching all the way down to Key West, Florida. After a bit of exploring, we wrapped up our day and made our way home.
On our way back to the interstate from Fort Kent, we opted for Route 11, and let me tell you, it was a decision we didn’t regret. Don’t miss the chance to stop at the Mt. Katahdin Scenic Overview – trust me, the view of Maine’s tallest mountain is absolutely breathtaking. Did you know that it’s actually an ancient volcano? Talk about fascinating geological history! Just a word of caution: while the view is spectacular, the location atop a hill makes visibility for traffic a bit tricky when pulling in and out. So, take it slow and steady, and soak in the beauty of nature’s wonders all around you.
But no road trip is complete without a visit to the legendary Dysart’s truck stop. Temptation lurked in the form of their famed pot pie with its heavenly “buttery flaky crust,” but we exercised restraint, opting instead for sweet chili chicken tenders and fries to share, leaving room for their renowned pie. However, amidst the savory delights, there was a minor grievance to address: Dysarts’ inexplicable omission of their homemade blue cheese for sale. Despite boasting about their homemade offerings, this delectable treat was conspicuously absent from the shelves. Our waitress, though friendly, seemed a bit scatterbrained, offering sides of blue cheese but failing to follow through.
All in all, it was an unforgettable trip. Having only experienced Northern Maine in the winter months, I’m itching to return during the warmer seasons. I’m not exactly fond of freezing temperatures, so exploring outdoors when it’s a mere 20 degrees isn’t exactly my idea of a good time. Luckily, we struck gold with unseasonably warm weather on day two, adding an unexpected layer of joy to our adventure. Before we plan our next excursion, I’ll need to ensure my passport is in order. My sights are set on expanding our journey to include a loop up to Quebec City next time around. The thought of delving into the vibrant culture and rich history of Quebec has me positively buzzing with excitement.
Now, over to you! Have you explored the wonders of Northern Maine or ventured into Quebec? I’m all ears for suggestions on our next escapade.
Travel Turtles 